MAKE-UP

Beauty said be the eye of the and that’s you every time you yourself the mirror apply make But there’s more than meets the eye. How you see yourself and how you will appear others can be quite different. Here’s how be sure looking your best from any angle and any situation.

Light up your looks:

Always make-up light near possible to the light you are going be seen in. For best daytime your mirror should be backed up against the window which gets the best this way the light comes straight the top of the mirror and on your face. The Victorians and the Edwardians got just right; that’s why the ugly of their dressing tables so often conspicuously one of the front windows. you want to avoid this settle instead for pretty table and separate mirror.

for night time you ideally need about 250 watts lighting. It best to have lighting along the sides and over the of your possible, position your table near wall or ceiling swivel spotlight is ideal, because you can direct the light over the top of the and place table light side of mirror. If there’s not much space, little lamps are fine; turn the half shade expose the light when you need it.

The minimum do the maximum:

This is the secret good make-up. Choose consistencies and colours which don’t conceal but simply highlight your natural good looks. It doesn’t necessarily follow that the more the effect you are aiming for, the fewer products you need to use. You can use several and your face will keep the secret long as

resolve to apply product carefully, in good light. And remember, the secret is patch up. In other words, be enthusiastic about make-up leave alone. Don’t dab on little bits here and there. Patches eye shadow on otherwise naked eyes, lipstick on colourless face or blusher on bare skin will only accentuate those areas of your are not made Never make the mistake of slapping on foundation and nothing else forlorn hope that as long as you blot out the odd spot or you will get by without any other up. You Foundation on its own looks flat and very noticeable. It worse than wearing no make-up all

Making up in your teens and twenties

Moisturiser is essential: ideally use a tinted one for a pretty glowing canvas which provides minimum coverage but

maximum protection. Consider the best shades for your ee make-up. Brown is the most natural of all, with grey close second. These colours may sound limiting but between the me there’s a whole new colour spectrum you probably haven’t investigated before everything from soft freckle. browns to lovely deep, plummy mauve-greys. Most medium to olive skins already contain these pigments anyway, which is what makes them ‘natural.

but the tones are right for everyone, even a fair-skinned blonde. Ideally, blusher and lipstick should tone with eye make-up The bonus of linking complementary shades is that one product will very often do the work of two or three. Take a brown eye pencil, for instance. Obviously, it’s great for tidying up the shape of the eyebrows and as long as the consistency is soft enough – for outlining eyes and lips too Follow that with a brown eye shadow in the same tone as the pencil blend over the eyelids, then fluff it on as a face shader An alternative approach to eye make-up is to use one powder eye shadow and apply it wet and dry for different effects. You’ll need two brushes, of course.

Use one to apply the shadow wet as an eye liner: the consistency goes on two or three shades darker than it appears in the palette. Use the second brush to apply the shadow dry, as usual, over the eyelids. Then take a pink-tawny tone eye shadow and use that on tal highlighter high on the lids under the eyebrows. The colour can also double up as a cheek blusher. This pink-tawny shade is just right for a blonde with blue eyes or a brunette with blue, grey or hazel eyes. If you have auburn hair. you need a more definite tawny shade. So with three products, plus moisturiser, you can achieve pretty flattering makeup. All that is missing is

mascara; this man and, to go with this colour scheme, choose a dark brown one. Never let mascara give itself away by allowing t lashes to stick together so they become stiff and spiky. secret is to use a wet brush or wand for application and a dry brush to take off any excess and to spread the lashes Finally, don’t forget lipstick, A tinted lip gloss is the ideal comistency to team with a tinted moisturiser face bases kee heavier, deeper lipstick colours and textures for times when you are wearing a full make-up Outline the lips first, then till in with lip gloss. You really do ret the most natural effect with thin outline of dark colour filled in with a more translucent lip gloss. Here,a lovely old-rose pink tones in beautifully with the pinky-brick colour of the eye highlighter and blusher

 Making your thirties and forties

All over certain age, should tinted foundation over moisturiser. Foundation only helps even blotchy skin tone, also acts make-up, Powder comes into own now too, both the loose variety, foundation, and compact pressed powder for touching up during the Both should colourless usually called translucent. The golden rule match your foundation your skin tone. Use powder invisible

It’s folly think you can blot mistakes foundation choice dusting lashings coloured powder Around the age forty, eyes start need definition rather than heavy make-up. very important keep neat and regular tweezing necessary. The the brow should start directly above inner corner and stop the point where pencil slanted from the of your nose past outer corner your meets the Make sure the outer end your brow high the starting point and check that highest point the curve immediately above the iris. you thinning the whole always pluck from underneath, never

With definition mind, need grey brown pencil outline eyelids, help make lashes look thicker. Start top and draw fine line, keeping close to lashes can. You might find easier transfer colour fine brush which edge really Define under eyes too, much the outer corners and slightly, about third then blur with the fingertip. Take eye shadow, much the same colour pencil. Use ring crease eyelid, where eyebrow bone meets the right round under the outer corner the eye.

Blur line until hardly then introduce first vestige real colour. Remember browns and greys definition only. shadow actual another, like, highlighter under eyebrow. sure blend colours where there harsh outlines Mascara next step. Apply sparingly moist applicator, brush lashes through using blusher cheeks and, with what’s apply touch colour winging from This the double liner. Outline lipstick, avoiding pale pinks orange

Choosing and using foundation

A good foundation evens up your skin tone and helps to hide any trouble spots. Beige or cream tones help to tone down florid skin. Pink tones emphasise a fair skin and add glowing colour to a sallow skin. Neutral beige tones givea delicate look and tone down a ruddy complexion. Beige tones are generally more flattering to older skins. Golden honey tones promote a healthy, outdoor glow. It is a mistake to try to alter your colouring too much with foundation – choose a colour within two shades lighter or darker than your skin tone. Foundations are available in creams, cakes, gels and liquids The texture of a foundation can help you achieve your ideal skin tone. A liquid foundation is ideal: it provides a light protective film with a fairly good coverage. The secret is to do the liquid all over your face and neck and smooth in lightly with downward strokes. Blend quickly and carefully, espe cially around the hairline and jaw, making sure that the colour fades out with no obvious demarcation lines To find the shade that’s best for you, compare the colour in the bottle or tube with the skin tone on the inside of your wrist or on your neck in daylight.

Using powder

Over half of the most common problems with make-up are caused by not wearing powder. This is invariably the reason why make-up disappears by 1I o’clock in the morning and why it becomes greasy-looking very quickly after application Powder takes the shine off your face and gives skin a velvety finish as well. The best kind to use is translucent; colour should come from your foundation, not your powder. It is also casier to achieve the ‘see through’ look if you use a loose powder rather than a pressed one.

 

To apply powder:

In the mornings, pat loose powder on lightly with cotton wool or a powder puff over your found ation, then dust off the excess. Artists’ brushes, the plump fluffy sable ones, are also ideal for applying powder. For the smoothest finish, always blend in powder using downward movements. This is the direction in which facial hair and down grow. If you stroke your face in the opposite direction, you will fluff up the fine hair and make it more visible To finish: After applying foundation and powder, for good measure, wring out a cotton wool ball in icy cold water and lightly pat it all over your face. This sets the make-up and helps its staying power’.

 Choosing and using face colour

Face blushers are a whole new category of colouring products which have evolved from rouge. To Use blushers properly vou must appreciate the principles of light and shade, then apply them to your face shape. The blusher family i made up of

three different groups. There are the natural looking peach and pinky tones which

add colour to the cheek area. Shaders are the darker tawny, brick, rust and plum tones which literally help shade away specific areas. Highlighters, which are usually creamy lumin ous tones, do just the reverse and draw attention to certain areas. Difficulties usually arise when it is not appreciated that all three varieties shouldn’t just be plonked on the cheeks. The pinks and peaches are right for the cheeks; they should be applied high on the cheekbone. Shader is more likely to go under the cheeks to create pretty ‘hollows’ Highlighters applied very high on the cheekbones – above the natural looking shade. Brush-on colour is applied after powder. Cream or liquid

goes on before powder; use the dot and blend technique rather as if you are applying foundation. Not sure where your cheekbones are? Find them with your fingertips. Then apply pink or peach ‘cheek’ colour lightly along the bone, blending

Choosing and using eye make-up

Aim build up wardrobe of eye colours and wear two three time different combinations. One suggestion is blue/primrose eye you will find more schemes pages 54 and 55. The secret of blending two or three colours successfully let them overlap to avoid hard Powder shadows are easily applied and but be sure blend the crease-resistant variety quickly because they dry soon after application. If you are over choose matt textures rather than iridescent ones for the actual wear iridescence as highlighter under the brow bone. Powder shadows stay in place better when applied lids which have been slightly moisturised. If you have less-than-perfect eyes you need to use neutral

contouring the correct shades used in the right places before you apply your actual eye colour scheme make problems disappear. To identify your eye type, Correcting eye shapes. Apart from eye shadow, you will apply pencil liner soft eye pencil makes the seem larger and the lashes thicker. Draw thin line along base upper lashes, then outline the lower lashes from the centre of the lid outwards. If you don’t like the idea of

continuous line, use pencil to dot on colour between the lashes will still achieve the lash-thickening effect. Blend the line, you like, with your fingertip or blur the edge with a fine brush Another reason for wearing eyeliner is to give your eyes more expressive shape. When this is your intention, start line the inner corner of the eye and widen it bit towards the centre, thinning out again at the outer corner. It’s good rule to match the colour of your eye pencil to that of your

shadow or mascara When you stroke on mascara, be sure to coat lashes all the way to the lavish the tops first, then brush up from underneath to curve lashes When the mascara has separate the lashes with clean dry brush or wand. As colour brunettes should wear black mascara; blondes and fair redheads, brown or charcoal everyone else should use dark You may need to shape and colour your brows with eyebrow pencil. If the colour is right, you can also use the pencil for outlining eyes and lips. Never draw on one hard line don’t colour the actual skin there is hair you can pull into line instead. For the best light-handed approach, curve the heel of your hand around the cheekbone and draw in the shape with light flicks from the wrist.

Correcting eye shapes

By using light and dark neutral eye shadows and pencil, it is possible to correct any eye shape problem. You must do this after putting on foundation and before going on to apply your actual eye colour scheme,

High-set brows: To underplay the lid area and minimise the space between brows and eyes, apply a pale shadow, such as mauve, from lashes to brows, then use a grey pencil the eyes.to outline

Deep-set eyes:

A‘wash of brick-coloured shadow from lashes to brows ‘reduces’ the eyebrow bones. An iridescent pearl grey pencil emphasises lashes, which helps bring the eyes forward

Narrow almond eyes:

A gold colour, blended from lashes to brows, highlights eyes. A grey line along the eyelid crease is also needed. Use a black pencil to outline lower lashes and

create an illusion of depth

Wide-set eyes:

A frosted grey shadow, on the lids and smoothed high into the corners, helps draw eyes closer together. A darker grey pencil used to partially outline the lids helps to define the eyes; outline top and bottom lids, working from the outer corner and fading out as you reach the centre Small close-set eyes: Light brown shadow from lashes to brows widens the lids. Use a dark liner just at the inner and outer corners.

Small wide-set eyes:

Moss green smoothed on the lids and high into the corners brings eyes together. A black outline around the outer corners helps to define and enlarge the eyes.

Prominent eyelids:

To Make the lids seem to recede, apply a wash of brown shadow, from lashes to crease line; play up the arca above with beige highlighter. Use brown eye liner.

Hidden eyelids:

Reverse the technique for prominent lids: apply beige shadow to the eyelid area, and brown shadow bowe – up to browse. Draw the thinnest eye line possible.

Eye catching colours

Almost any colour scheme goes as long as the colours are subtly applied and blended. For dark eyes: One of the most effective colour schemes is

the mauve brown eye (see above). Apply deep mauve shadow all over the lid, with beige-brown as a highlighter under the brow. Outline the eye with a grey-brown shade.

Also for dark eyes, consider a combination of pink blue. Apply rose shadow on the lid, grey-blue shadow to emphasise the outer half of the lid, and dark grey as a liner. There is also the grey/copper scheme for dark eyes. Apply silvery-grey shadow all over the lid, a touch of copper shadow in the centre of the lid, and use dark grey to outline. For grey eyes: Try a mixture of brick/plum colours. Apply

the brick tone all over the lid and use the plum shadow to emphasise centre of lid. Use a tawny brown pencil to outline

A brick green colour scheme also works well for grey eyes, Apply pale brick shadow to the whole eye area, then use a dark green shadow on the lid and a dark green pencil to outline. For really dark grey eyes, there is the mauve/pink eye. Use mauve shadow on the lid, pale pink as a highlighter under the brow and dark grey, or even black, to outline. For blue eyes: A silver/plum colour combination is really

effective. Apply plum shadow over the lid, then dust over with silver. Use silver-grey to outline – the darker the better. Also for blue eyes is the grey brick combination. Shade the whole lid with brick and cover with grey. To outline, use grey.

For a true blue scheme, apply pale blue over the whole eye area. Use darker blue on the outer half of the lid and a similar shade for outlining the eye. Put a touch of cream highlighter shadow into the extreme inner corner of the lid. For hazel eyes: There is the brick/turquoise combination, Use pale brick shadow on the inner half of the lid, turquoise on the outer half.

tawny brown to outline. Beige/grey gives a lovely sophisticated subtlety to hazel eyes. Apply grey-gold shadow all over the eye area, then grey Use

shadow to the lid. Use green to outline. Primrose/green is pretty Dust primrose shadow on inner half of lid, moss green on outer half. Use dark green to outline For green eyes: There is the brick/gold scheme. Apply pale gold shadow over the whole eye area, then dust brick over the lid only use tawny amber to outline

Choosing and using lipsticks

Eye makeup and lipstick go together. Wear one without the other and your face will look out of balance. A brush or a lip

liner pencil is almost essential, if you want to emphasize the shape of your mouth. And it’s a good idea to outline with a strong colour, deep pink, plum or brick, then fill in with a paler frosted shade. This technique gives a lovely luminous effect. See opposite: a tawny brick outlines lips, a pale bricks used to colour them in.) As a general rule, blot frosted lipsticks, but not mattones. And, for touching up during the day carry lip gloss with you, it is a mistake to keep piling on more and more lipstick Unless you are really expert with make-up, it’s not a good idea to start tampering with the shape of your lips by blotting out with foundation and drawing in new outlines. The clever approach is to use colour to create the illusion of a different shape. This method is less time-consuming and likely to be much more successful.

Full lips: To condense this shape, choose a clear, bright colour. Always apply lip gloss before you stroke on the colour Lipstick applied over a gloss doesn’t appear as dark and has sheer texture.

IlIl-matched lips: Often lips don’t match each other in site The top lip is thinner and smaller than the bottom. One lif colour over-all just exaggerates this, so it is a good idea to ue two different shades, both in the same colour spectrum, but one slightly deeper than the other. Use the deeper shade on the top lip.

Thin lips: Warm amber to brick tones are best for this lip shape Outline thin lips with a deep tone, then fill in with paler frosted shade

Correcting face faults

By using colour carefully, you can do great deal towards correcting any facial Your palette the whole beige brown spectrum, taking everything from very pale to quite dark shades and including all sorts consistencies: tinted moisturiser, foundation, powder, sticks of concealer make-up, specialist camouflage preparations, blusher shaders and highlighters, and eye shadows, The golden rule this any part your face you want to

make smaller make darker, anything you want to make lighter For bags under the eyes: Use foundation shade darker than the foundation you are using all over your face and brush it precisely on the bag, in thin it should be crescent

shaped For dark rings under the eyes: Use pale make-up concealer stick or foundation one shade paler than the one you are applying elsewhere. Alternatively, white or cream shadow highlighter, which is too pale to be worn on its

here, is effective when applied under foundation For noses of all shapes and sizes: Slim nose by putting dark foundation down the sides, blending well at the edges Make a nose look straighter by applying light line down the use foundation or pale concealer stick and blend Shorten a nose by putting dark foundation right under the tip and blending in well.

For nose to mouth lines: Use a light make-up concealer stick. Transfer the product onto a brush and trace a fine line along the groove; this is the same technique as the used for bags under the eyes.

For a mouth that sags at the corners: brush to apply

touch of light concealer stick to the area. For freckles: The right foundation is helpful if you want to hide freckles. Choose a shade that’s a little darker than your skin tone and little lighter than your freckles. Follow it with

pressed powder in the shade closest to your skin tone. If you have some particularly giant freckles you can cover them with an opaque makeup, Freckles are intensified by pigmentation which comes from the sun and certain climatic conditions. In summer, when you are probably leaving off make-up anyway, you might prefer to even out the freckle arcas especially on the on tawny face shader which well with freckle patterns

For more serious skin blemishes and scars: Use special masking and toning creams which These are of a more dense texture and more heavily pigmented ordinary make-up. If they are applied carefully,in the right combination of shades, these cosmetics are practically indis tinguishable on the skin. For high colouring: Apply a beige-toned foundation then set

with loose powder, this should provide sufficient camouflage High colouring is usually concentrated on the checks and around the nostrils. It stems from tiny cracks just beneath the surface of the skin into which traces of blood can escape. Fine sensitive skins are particularly prone to these thread veins. If the condition is quite serious and foundation and powder doesn’t provide effective cover, consider a tinted moisturiser with a slight green cast to counteract the floridity; you can then go on to apply foundation and powder as usual. For moles: Make up your mind whether you are going to tone down the odd mole with special masking make-up or make the most of it as a beauty spot.

Special considerations for the over-fifties

Over A certain age you don’t make-up you ‘make downl, which simply means that the older the skin, the more fragile it becomes and the less make-up it needs. This doesn’t impose any restrictions on the number of items used, but it does men that it is more important than ever before to apply them lightly and subtly for maximum effect and minimum coverage Remember when you apply make-up that the canvas is wearing thin

Learn to warm your foundation in the palm of your hand; cold application drugs the skin. And fight the temptation to put on too much foundation, especially around the eye arca; the skin here almost inevitably darkens in colour with age The secret is to have two shades of foundation; one to go all over, a lighter one for the area under the eyes. Most women give up powder after a certain age, but it is not necessary to do so. Powder is still the best way to set make-up

for the day. Get the better of wrinkles by gripping the powder puff or a pad of cotton wool between forefinger and thumb. then hold the skin taut and press powder down onto the skin with a light ‘healing’ movement. Always dust off any excess: it’s important to avoid a powdered look – that’s very ageing. There’s a lot you can do to lift your face with colour. Eyes tend to narrow as they get older, so use a pale eye-shadow colour – preferably not blue. Use this as a wash over the whole eye area, blending up and outwards towards the temples remember that lines that go up look younger than lines that droop. Green eye shadow is a good choice; it suits most skin and eye colourings. Use a pale green for the lids, then edge along the lashes with a darker green, blurring the application with the fingertip. For staying power on the lids, mis powder

Special effects for the bride and mother

For most brides making up to wearing white means completely new approach to beauty. The effect of an all-white

or cream wedding dress and veil is to create an aura which seems to suffuse the face and transform complexion colour Girls who are not in the habit of wearing anything pale or pastel-toned might we find that their usual makeup needs playing up or laying down. This also applies to the brides maids or the bride’s mum – if she’s wearing something paler

than she would normally choose The first essential for the leading ladies in the wedding group is a flattering shade of foundation. If your dress is dazzling white and the bridesmaids or mother’s choice green bluc or lemon. choose a foundation one shade warmer than the one you usually wear. If your dress is a warm cream, with pink or gold for bridesmaids or mum. consider foundations one shade paler than usual. Skin texture should present no problems, if you plan

wedding day look=far in advance and cat sensibly for a slim figure, shining hair, glossy nails and a clear skin. Just in case excitement produces an isolated spot on the actual day, match a medicated camouflage stick to your foundation colour. To encourage your make-up to last all day, apply translucent loose powder over your foundation. And carry with you compact of translucent pressed powder for touching up your make-up occasionally throughout the day with no build-up of colour Blusher is the most important part of wedding day make up. Choose rose-pink or subdued amber shades to emphasise the cheekbones and forget about reds and pluma – these come out far too dark in photographs. A pale and pretty iridescent blusher always looks good fluted on to the brow and winging out from the cheekbones- to emphasise the eyes; this gives a shimmering effect to the make-up and ‘rebuffs any shadows cast by the veil

Por photographs, the paper the eye-shadow, the more noticeable your eyes. This doesn’t mean that you are re tricked to green or blue. Try pale amber, warm beige or cool lavender Choose grey liner and mascara if you are brunette brown colours if you are blonde. Ideally, wear one pale shadow all over the lid une brown or grey in the crease line and to outline the upper and lower lids. Don’t over do the mascara

For lips, choose a medium tone lipstick in the same colour spectrum as your blusher And either mix the lipstick with lip loss or apply gloss on top of your lip colour, for a beautiful luminous effect.

Special effects for a party Choose colours that glow:

Candle light or any subdued

lighting is very flattering but gives little light. To be seen at your best avoid dark foundations or muted tones, your skin tone should be clear and light-reflectant, so that your face glows. Choose clear colours for eyes, lips and cheeks; muddy in-between shades just don’t look as good in night lights they do during the day.

Try textures that gleam: Several kinds of make-up now come with glitter added, as well as in their regular form There are foundations with a touch of shimmer, frosted lipsticks and lip glosses, and iridescent face powders, eye shadows, cheek blushers, shaders and highlighters. And, with the possible exception of lipstick, any one of these items can double up in all sorts of ways – highlighting temples, the crest of the cheekbones, the shoulders even. The purpose of all these products is to light up your face, but they can also make you look frostbitten or garish if applied with too heavy a hand. Girls still in their teens can get away with wearing everything in the glitter spectrum at once. Over-twenties need to wear i more subtly by combining carefully chosen glitter with their normal make-up to create a lovely glamorous effect. Here are two foolproof ways of applying glitter effectively.

Party effects for brunettes:

The colour scheme illustrated above (left is particularly good. To achieve this look, apply your usual foundation and powder, then dust on a frosted cheek blusher. Use one or two of the lightly frosted brush-on eye shadows and slick a frosty gloss over your lipstick. Choose vibrant pink for both lipstick and cheek colour. Sparkling blue is the shade for the eyelids, with brown accentuating the eyelid crease and winging right round the outer corner of the eye. Shimmering cream highlighter plays up the eyebrow bone.

Remember it’s important to choose clear colours for lips. eyes and cheeks; as long as all these areas are equally bright, the results look good. It’s only when the balance of colour is wrong that the whole effect can look overdone. Party effects for blondes: Here’s how to achieve the stunningly attractive scheme illustrated above right). Apply makeup just as you usually do. Then fluff translucent powder, in a gold-fleck, silver or opalescent shade, all over r taco (except your nose-shimmer here looks too much like shine). Pink is the colour to use for eyes, cheeks and lips. Keeping to one colour tone, like this, is the way to achieve a really luminous makeup. Pink is good with a blue or black outfit; gingery tones are best for a green or yellow outfit.